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Walking In Reports

Wednesday 21st July 2004
The Walk In written by Stuart Spencer

The atmosphere at Base Camp is ecstatic, with everyone beavering around safe and happy. The scenery is fantastic. To our north a massive daunting mountain hiding the sun and forcing us into our duvet jackets. Everywhere else is a mosaic of rock, snow and beautiful wall to wall blue sky.

Such a difference from three hours ago when visibility was down to 10 feet. 3 teams hadn’t arrived and we were settling comfortably, sat around our rock built table and chairs after 5 hours of concerned waiting. We ourselves had only found camp by a fluke, when we walked into the West Lancs flag.

The walk itself wasn’t too bad. The trek itself began after being dropped off by the twin otter at the coast, as we hurried to escape the man eating mosquitoes. Only 1km in and our boots were off and our feet wet as we crossed the icy cold river that blocked our path.

A little further (comparatively) and our 2nd sight of wildlife, little inquisitive fox cubs, with no concept of us allowed Andy to within feet for a photo. The moraine was tough going and we were glad when Andy dragged us onto the lower sandy motorway as we accelerated away from the 20 year olds, as they battled the moraine higher. With Paul biting our heals we were soon on the glacier. By this time Robbie was incapacitated with cramp in his legs (he’s fine now though) and Andy was carrying his pack Sherpa style. Once on the glacier the going got easier as we trudged steadily upwards. Sun still shining as we powered along the frozen water.

We soon came within sight of the SAGA tours group (the oldies) and upon catching them we found they in their wisdom had found a lovely little campsite which we promptly decided to invade. With tents up and food in our stomachs we slept like kings until Andy disturbed us with some unwanted tent rattling (presumably he couldn’t find a loud enough pan) to inform us that we had to get up. Still sunny, but as we proceeded up the glacier the weather deteriorated, although the temperature remained warm but cool walker’s dream. The clouds had sunk and it wasn’t long before we were unable to see more than 50m in front and the compasses were out, and straps tightened.

After camping with SAGA tours we managed to stay together reasonably well despite the mist (good navigating by both teams). So far we had no sight of anyone else. After what seemed like an age, we found a peculiar object and upon inspection it turned out to be the West Lancs Rose on a white tarp. A feeling of jubilation filed us as we realised that we must be close. We called out and were met by a very warm smiling Dick, who with Chris and Andrea had made up the advance party. An hour later and SAGA tours hadn’t arrived and worry had replaced the smiles as we had last seen them 800m before Base Camp. They eventually trouped in 2 hours after us. The mist was now that bad that they had spent all this time searching for us. There was still no sign of the other 3 groups.

The camp started to look like the Tate Modern, with rock chairs and make shift toilets but no sign of the wall to wall blue sky. It was a long wait for the others, who had been searching the glacier for hours. One team actually beat us to the top but overshot the camp and ended up in full mountaineering gear 2 feet in snow. But everybody is home (from home) and safe and it’s a billion times better than wicked, but a little cold.